Alfama: Where GPS Fails and Fado Lives

Lisbon's oldest neighborhood. Moorish-era labyrinth cascading from Castelo de Sao Jorge to the Tagus. GPS fails here. That's the point. Tasca do Chico on Rua dos Remedios: fado without amplification, the room going silent.

Walk from Miradouro da Graca down through Alfama to the river in late afternoon. The route passes the Se Cathedral and a dozen viewpoints framing river and red rooftops. The city reveals itself in descending layers.